Salkantay Trek Peru Part 2

Day 2:

After breakfast and a quick clean with baby wipes (also essential), we headed out to ascend 750m above sea level to our highest point and one of many spiritual points across the andes where incas and indigenous offer thanks to pacha mama (mother earth).




It was a sunny start to the hike and we even felt good at our break to do a couple of handstands among the landscape but it quickly turned into a soroche-induced walk, one foot in front of the other, don't stop, stay warm, sniff mint leaves or alcohol to get the breath going and finally, reach the top in Abra Salkantay 4650m above sea level. It was such a great feeling shared by everyone to have made it to the top because from here would be easier and downhill or at least we thought it would be.

Descending to our lunch camp was everyones' worst day. The weather turned on us as snow blew in on the start of our descent and soroche, cold, rain, wet and fog got in the way for two hours of gruelling navigation. The last half hour was my worst of the five days. I had the worst migraine that wasn't going away with any of the remedies the guides had, my head was pounding, I couldn't see anyone ahead of me and when Veronica (guide) asked me how I was, I answered through tears that "I just want to get there". It's not like I could call for an ambulance or a helicopter and I knew that once I could sit down, drink something hot and pop 800mg of ibuprofen, I'd be fine and I was. No one wanted to have a nap at our lunch camp like we did the first day. We all quickly gathered up our wet gear, put it back on and started walking almost as soon as our plates and cups were emptied.

The guides told us that descending meant, heading more into the jungle and the weather would be warmer and better. I don't think any of us believed them at that point until the weather did let up and we were graced with sunshine at a little farm where we stopped to dry our feet, our coats and rest a little before heading to camp.

By the time we reached Chaullay where our camp was on the second floor of a family run part of land, our spirits were lifted as we had fresh popped corn and hot drinks as a snack. Some of the guys even played a bit of footy on the poop ridden lawn. That night, we all slept well and looked forward for day three, where a hot spring was awaiting our arrival.

Salkantay Trek December 9-13. 2013